Covid-Tested Flights

 

We have both been vaccinated and decided June would be a good opportunity to visit our families in the US for the first time in almost two years.

Delta Airlines offered Covid-Tested flights to and from the US/Italy via select airports in both countries. There were very specific requirements to avoid any quarantines in either country and with the pandemic still a world-wide issue we felt this would be the safest option for us. We flew from Rome FCO to New York JFK and return Atlanta ATL to Rome FCO – with connections to Cleveland.

The requirements to enter the US were less stringent than those to return home to Italy. To board our flight at FCO we had to have a Covid test within 72 hours of our flight – we did a rapid test two days before at a local lab that we have used for medical tests in the past. We had our results in a few hours and were able to print the results at home. We arrived at the airport and the process was operated by Delta employees and it seemed like this was the first time they were doing this – we showed them our negative test and flight confirmation and then were able to access the check-in.

Our flight was less than half full and we were able to each have several seats across to relax. There were no restrictions on changing seats and masks were enforced, whatever type you were wearing. The arrival process at JFK was no different than pre-pandemic other than wearing masks.

We put our masks on when we entered the airport in Rome and did not remove them until 18 hours later when we exited the airport in Cleveland.

Since we were going to be meeting our families and my elderly parents, we had brought rapid tests with us (you can buy them at a pharmacy in Italy) and tested ourselves a few days later – both negative.

During our time in the US, we were upfront with family and friends that despite the relaxed pandemic requirements in Ohio, we would be following specific anti-Covid protocols as we needed to test negative to return home to Trivigno.

To return home we needed a Covid test 72 hours before our flight and complete two forms online that we would need once we arrived at Rome FCO. Finding a location in the Cleveland area that would provide test results with 24 hours was more difficult than expected. Prices quoted also varied widely from $150 to more than $300. The locations listed on the Delta website would only commit to “results back in 24 to 72 hours”.

I finally found an Urgent Care provider, Wellnow, that repeatedly said results in 24 hours. I had my test done on a Wednesday morning and the results were ready by the next morning. Due to a mix-up on their end with our cell number, I had to drive back to their office to get the results and could not print them from home.

When we arrive in Rome FCO we have to take another rapid test and Valerie had found an article that mentioned making the appointment in advance which I did on the adr.it website. I was also able to complete the Passenger Locator Form online in advance at app.euplf.eu/. I printed both of these and had them with my flight documents.

When I arrived at Atlanta ATL I had to go gate E14 where they had set-up to confirm your prior negative test and have you sign-up for another rapid test before boarding. There is a QC code that you will have to use and input minimal information to be able to have the test done (make sure you can do this with your smartphone). This was well organized and after waiting about 20 minutes for my results I was able to proceed to the gate. There was similar testing in the same area for flights to Amsterdam.

The flight to Italy was almost completely full and they announced you could not change your seat and masks were enforced. Prior to landing they distributed surgical style masks to anyone not using that type as required to enter the Rome FCO airport.

Inside the terminal, as has always been my experience, there was more than one international arrival at the same time. This meant a long line to get to the rapid test, about 45 minutes. Once I was in the testing area the process was quick and orderly - I was done in under 20 minutes. You received your test results and then headed to customs which was unusually quick and to the baggage area where the bags were waiting on the carousel.

I was seated near the front of the plane and from landing to exiting the terminal it took me just about 1.5 hours.

So – one test 72 hours in advance to leave Italy and enter the US. One test 72 hours in advance, rapid test before boarding and rapid test upon arrival in Italy.

Obviously, Italy is currently being more prudently cautious during this pandemic than the US.

To live the dream...

Periodically I will receive an email form someone about our experience of moving to Italy - people who share the same desire to take the plunge. Since we have returned to the United States, I want to reflect on some of our experiences in moving to Italy, speaking as an American couple who are not wealthy nor retired…covering both the good and the bad.

Our experience, and anyone else’s experience, should not be viewed as the exact steps someone wanting to make this move will need to follow. We quickly learned that everyone will encounter different bureaucracy at different consulates here in America and also at different provinces in Italy.

Our journey started after visiting Italy the first time, as a desire to move that just never seemed to lessen and we spent a minimum of two years trying to figure out ways we could get jobs or Valerie could obtain citizenship through her heritage...all of these were dead-ends. We were fortunate to sell our house at the peak of the market in New Mexico and used a portion of that equity to go to Italy.

When we finally made the commitment to move to Italy our plan was to come for one year and see if it was all that we had hoped; it was and much more. One year quickly became two years which we were able to extend to three years in Italy. It was not always easy and there were times of frustration with the bureaucracy, language and figuring out how things work. Then there were many wonderful experiences, interesting people and unique opportunities with life in Italy. Life in Italy is good, but living there can be difficult.

The first step to move to Italy was obtaining our visa from the consulate in America. A visa only gets you into the country; you then start the process for the permesso di sioggiorno (PdiS) which is renewed every two years. If you have family ties then citizenship may be a route to look into, though a lengthy path. With the electiva residenza that we have we are not allowed to take a job in Italy, which means I can't go work in a store or factory. We had to show that we could support ourselves with investments and cash in the bank. The consulates would never say how much cash you had to have but our funds were enough to be well beyond "just making it".

Despite all of the planning and calculating we did, our actual costs have been higher than our worst case scenario. We do not live extravagantly yet we also try to enjoy what Italy has to offer…why else move here?! Then there are the exchange rates...none of the economic pundits in 2005 could foresee what happened to the dollar in 2008.

You can work autonomously in Italy but that requires a different PdiS and the specific type varies depending on what kind of work you are going to do. There are also only a limited number of these available each year on a province by province basis. From what others have told us, these can be difficult to obtain.

Remember…there is never a guarantee that you will be granted a visa or a PdiS.

The work we have set up is based in the United States with addresses, accounts and taxes in America. Any business with direct Italian business connection will require a commercialista, an Italian accountant. The tax laws here are so complicated that even the simplest and smallest businesses require professional assistance. We have found that some things we think would be great business ideas did not developed as we had hoped. Also, doing business in Italy is very different than North America...the gears of Italy work based on who you know, who they know and who they will introduce you to. Being the best or having the best idea does not always insure success.

It can be daunting to plan and make this type of move but for those who really want it, they will make it happen. I would recommend that if someone is looking to move and start a business then to plan on having funds for at least 2 years to support yourself once you actually have your business operational. Most people seem to experience at least 2 years before their business really begins to develop. Starting ahead on the business you choose before your move would be a good step; get a good business plan, check your financial situation and when you are ready get to know your local consulate and inquire as to what specifically they will require.

One of the frustrating things for us when we were planning our move was figuring out what to budget. Living in Italy can be less expensive for some items (food and eating out) but more expensive for others (gas, utilities). If you would spend $2000 a month for a lifestyle in the US I would suggest you can figure the same amount in Italy…but in Euros. If you plan to travel a lot, it can be expensive to always “be on vacation”. You will also encounter start-up costs such as a vehicle, furnishings, etc.

Then there is the language. Being conversant in Italian can help to open many opportunities for you both personally and professionally. A strong base in Italian before your arrival would be recommended as well as enrolling for several weeks of intensive classes upon your move to Italy. Trying to start a new life, and a business or work, can easily interfere with attempting concentrated study on your own.

To learn more about the process of our move to, and life in Italy, I have made extensive posts listed under "the process" tab at 2italy.blogspot.com – feel free to browse.

What Happened to September?

Wow, the month seems to have whizzed by.

The first part of September I was in the USA to celebrate my parents 60th Wedding Anniversary, quite an accomplishment. Valerie had been in the States in May for a cousin’s wedding so I travelled solo. It was a good opportunity for all of my family to get together for a few days to celebrate the occasion and my parents were thrilled as it is rare we are all able to get together at one time.

Italy started back to work in September and we’ve been busy, too. Some clients for My Bella Basilicata have kept us busy a few days showing them the origins of their families in Lucania.

I’ve also been finishing up some projects around the house before the temperatures begin to drop and the rain becomes more prevalent.

A quick look at the calendar for October and it looks like another busy month…

Glad to be Back Home

Holland America Cruise 2011

We returned a few days ago from our cruise in the Caribbean, a trip with our worst flight experiences ever. The night before we left Valerie awoke coughing and by the time we arrived at the airport in Rome she was dealing with the flu. Not a pleasant way to spend 11 hours on a trans-Atlantic flight.

We had a six hour lay-over in Atlanta, where Delta “misplaced” our luggage and we finally located it with some persistent questioning. New Years Eve we were in the Miami Airport and Valerie spent the next two days in Miami in bed recuperating.

We boarded the cruise in Ft. Lauderdale and had an enjoyable time in the Eastern Caribbean with my family. The weather was warm and sunny and there were no problems on the ship. We even filled the sports bar onboard with Buckeye fans to watch the Sugar Bowl, no Razorback fans to be found.

O-H-I-O   Go Buckeyes!

The problems with Delta continued on our return flights when there was a delay leaving Miami which bumped us off our flight from JFK to FCO. After some scrambling we were booked on a later flight but when we arrived at FCO our luggage was nowhere to be found. Delta claimed they could not find our luggage but fortunately yesterday we had a call from FCO that our two bags were located and are to be delivered to our house on Thursday.

We are glad to be back home and Lucano’s constant purring indicates he is happy to have us here.

Cattle cars in the sky

European low cost carriers

On the two occasions we have traveled to other parts of Europe while living in Italy we have flown on low-cost carriers, Europe’s version of Southwest Airlines. The first time we flew on Easy Jet to England and recently we took Ryan Air to Barcelona. Our goal on those two flights was location and price; however, both of those experiences were not pleasant, these carriers make Southwest Airlines feel like a first class carrier.

Ryan Air is very popular in Europe, especially with the British as they allow them to reach most of Europe rather inexpensively. Or at least it appears inexpensive. The advertised fares tend to be very low, sometimes as low as 20€ each way, that is until you add in all the additional fees. They charge to check any baggage, there is a fee to pay with a credit card and of course there are additional taxes.

Then you get the experience of the actual trip. The terminal areas are usually overcrowded with limited seating and boarding is a first come first served, many times lines forming at the gate an hour before boarding. Since they tend to fly into smaller airports boarding usually requires walking out to the plane on the tarmac to climb the stairs and with unassigned seating there is a dash for available seats.

Once you are on the plane the stripped down interior (no magazines, pillows or seat back pockets) gives new meaning to uncomfortable. Passengers scramble for seats and available overhead bin space to stuff their oversized carry-on bags, there is limited enforcement concerning baggage size. To add to the joy of your flight you have to pay for any refreshments; water and hot tea or coffee will cost you several euros. Periodically during the flight the attendants will pass through the cabin selling lottery tickets and other such items.

Departing the plane once you have landed is the reverse scramble you experience boarding, however we have not had problems with missing luggage.

These low coast carriers are a true example of the phrase “You get what you pay for”. If you are traveling in Europe and considering one of these be aware the experience is not for the faint hearted.

Easter in Azillanet

Francia

For Easter we went to southern France to visit Valerie’s cousin, our first time in France. Despite some bad weather, it rained all day Sunday, we enjoyed seeing some things including the fortified city of Carcassonne, Narbone and her incomplete cathedral, part of the canal system that runs the length of southern France, the charming town of Minerve and lots of rows of vines. I think we have seen enough Gothic architecture for awhile as the cathedrals in Carcassonne and Narbone are heavily ornamented in that style.


In and around the town of Azillanet where we were staying it is mostly flat, just north of the Pyrenees, and there are row upon row of vines. This is a contrast for us and the wine areas we are familiar with in central and southern Italy where vineyards are predominantly planted on hillsides, sometimes very steep hillsides. We enjoyed sampling some of the local AOC wines, but we do have a preference for vino italiano.


Of course no trip to France would be complete with out sampling the wines as well as the food and cousin Celia did an excellent job in choosing some wonderful places to dine on several occasions. We also had the opportunity to spend a rainy evening with some of their neighbors sampling home canned products and cheeses.


The trip was short but gave us a taste of French hospitality and an opportunity to spend some time with family.

Freezer to the oven

When the decision was made that we needed to get to the US to see Valerie’s uncle we booked flights out of Roma for the next day and quickly packed for our trip. Being that it was mid summer and all the forecasts for Washington, DC had us expecting hot weather we packed accordingly. This was a mistake.

I felt cold most of the time I was in the US, despite the hot and humid weather outside. We were inside the majority of the time in a hotel, the hospital or restaurants and subjected to the full power of American air conditioning. I guess after three summers in Italy I have adjusted to minimal use of air conditioning as I found myself constantly chilled; despite the fact I wore long pants most of the time. On one occasion in a grocery store I huddled by the rotisserie display to fight the cold air blowing from the ceiling vents.

I arrived back in Roma to heat and humidity. The skies are muggy and the August sun is blaring. The temperature in our apartment approaches the low 80’s, a marked difference from the mid-sixties indoor temperatures experienced in the US.

Today is ferragosto, the big summer holiday in Italy where everyone heads to the beach. Ascoli Piceno looks like a ghost town with everyone at the coast and shops closed for ferie. I have not seen many of our friends since returning as they are out of town on vacation, most will return in a week.

The weather forecasts call for cooler temperatures this weekend…we’ll see.

Zio Dean

Dean Wilhelm

I am conservative, he is liberal. This always made for interesting conversations for us as he always loved to talk politics; we enjoyed joking with each other during the many times when he would visit us in New Mexico or Italy. When we were together a common topic was always about the food, where were we going to go eat next to enjoy the local cuisine or have a gelato.

Valerie’s uncle Dean passed away Wednesday afternoon with his family and friends near him. We were fortunate to get flights to fly back from Italy last week and had a couple days to see him and share our particular memories.

Dean was special to both of us; he walked Valerie down the aisle when we were married almost 22 years ago. He was a caring man who his nieces and nephews looked up to, many times as a father figure.

Dean worked for Holiday Inn Capitol for almost 25 years and the time we spent there has shown us how much of an impact he had on that hotel and the city of Washington, DC. He treated his employees like family and they have been treating us in like fashion.

Dean we will miss you…

Obituary

Good caffe' in America

Sheri’s Coffee House

I knew I would not find a good caffe’ in the US so I really did not make an effort as in our previous trip, being content to drink moka coffee. The one or two times I tried a coffee shop the results were dismal, weak coffee in a cup too large and too expensive. At one chain coffee shop coffee and pastries for four people was more that $16, a good 30% more than what we would pay here.

I found even the French make bad coffee. While at the airport in Paris there was an Illy bar in the terminal and I ordered a caffe’ macchiato which was more like a small cappuccino, weak and too much milk. So much for those who claim Illy is always the best.

The one exception to this experience was a coffee house in Norwalk, Ohio. Sheri’s Coffee House is located on Whittlesey St, just north of Main St. in the downtown area. Since Valerie’s grandmother lived in that town we made several visits there and after explaining on our first visit how I wanted my caffe’ it was right each time. I think one of the factors in Sheri’s making good caffe’ is that their machine is made by a company located here in Marche. They also showed an interest if the caffe was okay and the results were the best I have found in the US.

So if you are in north central Ohio and really need a good caffe’ head down US20 and stop in at Sheri’s in Norwalk. Be sure to enter their raffle for a Vespa!

Casa dolce casa

Back Home

Late on Friday we returned home to Ascoli Piceno, casa dolce casa. With the travel days to and from Roma for our flights and the day we lost flying east over the Atlantic we were gone for almost three weeks. We knew part of our trip would be hectic with the wedding but the second part was just as busy with the passing of Valerie’s grandmother.

With both events we met a lot of relatives we have not seen for several years and also welcomed new ones into the family; weddings and funerals always bring family together. There were several distant relatives or friends of relatives who commented that they had heard about our move to Italy so we were frequently labeled “the Italians”.

A typical conversation would go like this:

“So who are you related to?”

“I’m Judy’s son-in-law”

“Do you still live in this area?”

“No we actually live in Italy”

“Oh yeah, I’m a cousin of Judy and she mentioned you had moved over there.”

While we were gone this part of Italy experienced a lot of rain, our friends have said it rained almost everyday. The green countryside and cooler temperatures are a testimony to the wet period while we were away. This is quite a difference from the heat and dry of this time last year.

Now we are unpacking and putting things away, seeing friends and getting back into the swing of Italian: the pace and the language. It was much too easy for me to slip into speaking only English while we were gone.

And sagra season has begun in Italy – yeah!

Gone to a wedding

The original purpose of our trip to the US was for my nephew’s wedding and that happy event took place last Saturday in Geneva, IL, a western suburb of Chicago. There were severe storms in the area on Friday but Saturday and was clear and sunny day, perfect for a wedding.

Friday night we met the bride to be, Karen, for the first time as she and Eric had met after we moved to Italy. She made a lovely bride and my nephew cleaned up pretty well himself. We were able to see some extended family that we haven’t seen for many years and the entire week-end went well.

The newlyweds made the short trip from the wedding ceremony location to the reception on a tandem bicycle, which we thought was a unique way to kick off the festivities.

Sunday the families got together one last time for a barbeque before everyone headed off to airports or the interstate to head home. We wish Karen and Eric the best in their new life together.

Back to the US...for a visit

Goin’ to a wedding

We are making another trip to the US next week to attend my nephews wedding in the Chicago area. As we were planning to make this trip we kept debating if Valerie would also go and fortunately we booked flights for both. Valerie’s grandmother has recently been moved from assisted-living to a nursing home so the timing will be good to visit her.

We will be spending all of our time in the Midwest section of the US and unfortunately will not be able to make it to New Mexico, again. Ohio is where most of our family is located but if someone asks us where home was in America we think of New Mexico.

Having booked the flights I remember why we always traveled to Italy in the early spring or fall as these fares are the most we have ever paid for airline tickets. But, of course, family is always worth it.

Visiting the Cotswolds

A visit to England

On short notice we decided to make a quick trip to Great Britain, a country we have never visited. Friends of ours, Pauline and Steve, from Santa Fe, NM are renting a cottage in the Cotswolds area of Southwestern England and we took advantage of their offer to visit.

This started with Valerie searching airfares and both EasyJet and RyanAir advertise cheap flights to Great Britain but they like to nickel and dime their customers. We found flights on EasyJet from Ciampino airport in Rome to Bristol which was the closest airport to Pauline and Steve. The “no-frills” service of these carriers make Southwest Airlines in the US look like first class: bus or walking to and from the gate to the plane, charges for checking luggage, a charge to book on-line with a credit card, and no water or snack on the 2.5 hour flight (2.50€ for a cup of hot tea).

We have met several people in our area from Great Britain and they all said the Cotswolds is a very charming area and based on our visit I agree. We had four days of clear skies and despite frost at night unseasonably warm temperatures during the day. This was not the wet, cold and dreary England we have always heard about. We spent the few days there being shown around the area by Pauline with Steve mastering the left-side driving chores. (Trivia: do more people drive on left or right side of road? Clue: Chinese drive on the left). This is an area of charming stone villages of similar stone, shape and size. There are several canals in the area with adjoining walking paths and there are paths that connect villages where walking across a farmer’s field is accepted and encouraged.

We visited a town with a name similar to the town Stow, Ohio where I grew up; Stow-on-the-Wold that claims the earliest organic food store in Great Britain. We had fish-and-chips, tea with biscuits and cream, a pint or two of ale, had curry (ate at an Indian restaurant), took the waters and retraced some of the places written about and known to Jane Austen.

The generally uniform structures, clean road sides, lack of graffiti and organized parking in this area of England were all a stark contrast to our life here in Italy. Again not better or worse, just different. We had a great time enjoying the English countryside and spending time with friends.

In case you wondered…we did try coffee at a couple places, even some which advertised Illy coffee. I did not have to explain what I wanted when I ordered a single espresso but the taste just didn’t seem the same as here in Italy.

O H I O

Oh How Incredibly cOld

We arrived in northern Ohio last Wednesday the day after a few inches had fallen on the Cleveland airport and the temperatures were in the low 30’sF but the sun was out and it didn’t feel too bad. Since that day the temperatures have steadily dropped and yesterday we awoke to find several inches of snow on the ground and the temperatures never rose above 15F/-9C. The forecasts before we leave on Tuesday are more of the same.

I found that shoveling snow is like riding a bicycle, you never forget how to do it…no matter how hard you try.

We have been running around Northeastern Ohio the past few days so we can spend some time visiting our families. Since our families do not live in the same towns we have been coordinating each day to be able to see someone, some of our family have traveled a day or more to be able to meet up with us. With all of the running around we will need a few days to recuperate when we return home.

One of the things we have been doing is sampling an array of ethnic foods while here in the US. We both love Italian food and Valerie is a great Italian cook but we also enjoy authentic ethnic food, the options for that are limited in the Ascoli Piceno area. We have had Japanese, Afghanistan, Turkish, Chinese, Greek, Indian, Lebanese and of course some good old American cooking. My body will be looking forward to a healthy diet of pasta when we get home.

For those who were wondering…after numerous failed attempts we did find a good espresso in Norwalk, Ohio at a place called Sheri’s.

Visiting Washington, DC

We arrived in Washington, DC late on Thursday after being up for 24 hours and were told by Valerie’s uncle that we looked as tired as we felt, neither one of us sleeps well on planes. Our time has been spent catching up with some family and friends in this area and the time has gone by very fast.

It has been about five years since we visited here last and there are some new monuments and museums that we have not seen before but we were able to fit in a little sightseeing. We were impressed by the World War II monument on the Mall and the new Air Force monument soars over the west bank of the Potomac. I always enjoy the National Portrait Gallery which was closed for renovation during our last visit. The one place we were not impressed with was the new American Indian Museum, after 20 years living in New Mexico with regular contact with native cultures we felt there was a lot more they could have done to tell their unique story.

We are off to Ohio on Wednesday and unfortunately the weather forecasts look bleak, we are in store for some COLD winter weather.

A visit back "home".

Going to the US

Since we moved to Italy in May 2006 we have not been back to the United States, later this month we will be making our first short trip back. Despite it being the middle of the winter in Ohio and Washington DC we are looking forward to being able to visit our families in those two areas. We do not consider this a trip “home” since we lived in New Mexico for twenty years and that was our “home” in America. For many years we would tell people who ask that we grew-up in Ohio but New Mexico was our home state. The more time we spend in Italy the more it seems like our new “home”.

As the time approaches to go I start to think about how things there might be different…or should I say how our prospective of what we see will be different after living in Italy.