Mangia!

How many courses in an Italian meal? It depends…

• 1^st there is the antipasto: This is often a cold dish, each region with its own specialties varying with the season. It may be sauteed vegetables, salami and prosciutto, or bruscetta.

• 2^nd is the primi or which means first course, and is the pasta dish. It is a small portion, not the full plate of overcooked pasta covered with heavy sauces most Americans think of.

• 3^rd is the secondo or meat course, which consists of a meat, fish or poultry serving, again without heavy sauces or any side dish. Some restaurants may offer a vegetable-based secondo but it’s not common in this part of the country.

• 4^th is the contorni or vegetable course. They may be hot or cold cooked vegetables, usually what is currently in season. There is usually an insalata offered which is a leaf lettuce salad which is served with olive oil, vinegar, and salt. Again no heavy creamy dressing.

• 5^th is dolce. The sweets which is usually a pastry or gelato in warm weather.

• 6^th is the fruit. Again this is what is available seasonally and may simply be fresh melon or fruit cut and served cold.

The previous are served with red and white wines. The last two may not be considered actual “courses”:

• 7^th Caffe’; espresso coffee with lots of sugar – no milk.

• 8^th and final is the digestivo. This is a small liqueur such as grappa, limoncello or American whisky - which is very popular among Romans.

This full eight course meal is served slowly with lots of conversation and usually lasts two hours or more. Considering meals begin at 8PM or later, this can make for a long night of eating.

Daily meals and small gatherings usually do not include this full array of food – perhaps just a primo, insalata and fruit – with wine of course.

Here in Ascoli Piceno the offerings at restaurants include a lot of pork and lamb dishes, even though we are only 30 minutes from the Adriatic Sea. There are a couple places we frequent and there are some unique characteristics of these establishments that the locals prefer. First, they are located in out-of-the-way corners with minimal signage; you have to know where you are going. Second, there are no written menus; the offerings for the day are given to you verbally with usually 3 or 4 choices for primo and secondo and 2 or 3 contorni. Many will have a fixed price which includes everything: wine, mineral water, primo, secondo, contorni and caffe’. These complete meals range from €12 to €17 depending on if you are having pranzo or cena. Finally, when you are done and want to pay, you just get up and walk to the cash register, which is usually at the bar, and tell them what you had and they tell you how much. At our favorite places we usually don’t even get a receipt, just a big smile and a “Ciao”.